Kermel Market - Dakar Senegal

-Marché Kermel-

Marche' Kermel

The original Victorian style building constructed in 1860 burnt down in 1994, but the 1997 reconstruction has been closely modelled on the building's initial structure and decoration.
The covered Marché Kermel, behind Av Sarraut and within walking distance of Marché Sandaga. Marche Kermel is a popular market in Dakar. It is famous not only for its large variety of food and souvenirs sold: it is also known as a beautiful landmark because its building is a splendid piece of art.



Marche' Kermel-Original

Designed by the same Victorian architects that designed the Dakar train station.

At the Marche' Kermel you can find all types of European foods, all beautifully presented.  Here you will find modern shops such as butchers and spice stalls. 

Marche Kermel

Cows are butchered in front of customers,  lobster and shrimp try to escape boxes, and fresh fruit and vegetables abound. Around this market people are selling flowers, alongside small crafts shops selling straw/cane articles, wooden sculptures and leather goods.

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Senegal's Glass Painting - History

Senegal  Glass Painting

The Senegalese under glass painting so called “fixé under glass” and “souwere” in wolof came to Senegal fom the Arabic countries through Tunisia with the return of muslim pilgrims from “La Mecque” at the end of the XIXth century.

Senegal Glass Painting

Initially, the topics related to Senegal glass painting are based on religious themes linked to local Islam : traditions (rituals and stories), brotherhoods (witchdoctor) and daily scenes (coranic school), and they tend to move into Senegalese history, most of the time linked to colonialisation, and into profane field such as portraits – scenes of daily life, and popular wisdom.

This art might look  like a painting covered by a glass. But this is not the case. The glass itself is painted and used as a support to the painting similar to paper, canvas or wood. It is at the same time the support and the protective coat of the painting which is carried out on the back of the glass and then, seen by transparency.

Senegal Glass Painting

 The making of a souwere requires first to clean and to remove the grease of the glass plate. The drawing is performed either on paper and then transferred on the glass, or directly on the glass  with a feather or a thin brush with black painting, setting the limits of the surface which will be coloured later on.

Glass painting is also known as "reverse glass painting," which more closely describes the technique used to produce it. With reverse glass painting, the artist is working on the back of the glass, which is the opposite of what a painter would do on canvas. He must work backwards to create the work. Facial expressions and details are painted on first, and background scenes are applied last.

Senegal Glass Painting

Any details : inscriptions, signature of the artist or details which are added at the end of the work on another kind of support, must be drawn at the beginning and then reversed to appear at the first level and right side out. Finally, a last coat of painting is applied covering the whole glass plate : parts remaining blank like the ones already painted and dry in order to finalize the drawing. It is important to notice that Bass has used other materials in the same drawing such as sand and Indian ink (men and women portraits). Sometimes, he has underlined the transparency of glass, avoiding to cover it (“les enfants talibés).

Visit the page of Mor Gueye - World Famous Senegalese Glass Painting Artist

Visits Page for Senegal Arts,Music ,Film and Nightlife

You can order Senegal Glass from..Swahili Imports

Mor Gueye - Senegal Master of Glass Painting

Mor Gueye - Artist

Mor Gueye -Artist .  He is the internationally recognized master of the Senegalese art of reverse glass painting and his paintings are held by many public collections worldwide. At age 80, Mor Gueye continues to run an active studio in Dakar, Senegal where his work is avidly sought by private collectors.

The light of his paintings reflects the strength of a blazing sun, the colors draw their strength and tone in the land and people of the African continent.

His work has appeared in a number of exhibitions in Africa and Europe. He and his son Serign Gueye were featured in the exhibition A Saint in the City at the UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, and in the exhibit’s companion catalogue written by Allen and Mary Nooter Roberts. Mor Gueye uses a technique known as “reverse glass painting,” where he paints on the back of glass panes. He is an ardent “Baye Fall” (a Sufi sect of Mouridism in Senegal). As a young man, Gueye recounts that Amadu Bamba, the great leader of the Mourides, came to him in a dream that led to his first painting. While Gueye works in a range of genres, most of his paintings  depict scenes from Mouride history and life. Gueye considers himself an historian, and his real joy is in painting scenes of Bamba's life. He feels his paintings are ‘like prayers’, which convey baraka or blessings. As the race of the panther, the light of his paintings reflects the strength of a blazing sun, the colors draw their strength and tone in the land and
people of the African continent.

Click here to Visit Mor Gueye's Website
Visit page for Senegal Glass History

Surfing Senegal

Surfing Senegal



Senegal Surfing



Forget Hawaii, Australia or Tahiti.... West African is the new hotspot for surfing.

Great breaks along the coast of Senegal, Liberia and Ghana draws surfers to West Africa from around the world.

West Africa's super sweet white beaches,big waves and tropical temps...makes this a West African surfers paradise.

Almadies Peninsula, on the outskirts of the Capital Dakar,and N'Gor Island are where Senegal surfers go to hang ten.

Senegal Surfing

SurfCamp N'Gor Island in West Africa

Wannasurf  - List some of the best surfspots in Senegal

West Africa Surf Reports and Surf Forecasts

See our page on Senegal Day Trips

The Woman's Museum- Goree Island Senegal - Musee de la Femme - Henriette Bathily

The Woman's Museum

The Woman's Museum- Goree Island Senegal - Musee de la Femme 
The Senegal Blog
Looks at the role of Senegalese women in traditional,rituals, community, folk arts and modern West African culture. Through field research, interviews, collections in families, photographic reproductions, recordings and films, consultations archive the results will be published in the journals of the museum - which will set up a structure to attract the interest of nationals and foreigners on an important aspect of community life and organization of our society that revolve 

around the woman.

The Woman's Museum

The Museum of Senegalese women is being able to allows non Senegalese to enter "privacy" of Senegalese society or for research, study, work or university, simply need to learn about the other. They can then compare  the characteristics of other ethnic groups, other communities, other regions: the customs, traditions vary between groups.

Contact Information
Museum Henriette Bathily
Goree, Senegal
Tel: 00 221 33
Tuesday to Sunday : 10 to 16H H3 closed Monday

Please visit our page for Day Trips in Senegal. 

Visit  page on Goree Island Senegal

The Senegal Blog

Hiring a Private Tour Guide

Private Tour Guide

Why you must hire a Private Tour Guide
I am a strong advocate of hiring a local private tour guide when touring. I know some of you are thinking ..."I paid all this money for this Lonely Planet/Frommers guide book, why do I need a human guide?"


When I first started traveling I felt the same way. Why spend the money on a private tour guide when I am an educated woman who can figure things out on my own.. It's crazy that money I save ,I can spend now in the gift shops. Who wants to follow some silly know-it-all guide waving a a umbrella around?

Private Tour Guide

When touring a site there is much more to see and experience then what it in the guide books. I found myself ease dropping in on other guided tours. I was dismayed to hear tidbits not found it my books. The last time I visited Versailles I hired a private tour guide. It was money well spent,even though I had been before,at which time I paid for one of those audioguided tours. An audio tour or audio guide provides a recorded spoken commentary, normally through a handheld device. I remember being very stressed out during my self guided tour because of the crowds and fiddling with the headset.

Private Tour Guide

Having my own private guide was like night and day. My guide Antonio not only knew how to navigate the crowds (it was even more crowded that day)  he also was able to answer any questions I had at the moment. What a relief not having to try and find the answers in a guide book. He was also able to make the tour more interesting  because of his endless knowledge on the history of Versailles. He could gage my reactions and go in depth on the the things that I was interested in and skim over what was boring to me. I was so happy with Antonio I also hired him to show me the Louvre.


As far as the cost , yes it was more than an audio tour but there was a group of us that chipped in, so it helped with the cost. Remember, you get what you pay for.There was other ways he saved us money. We where going to take a private car to the Louvre not being comfortable with the train system. He told us to meet him at  certain metro stop  he would show us the way.  It was so easy we felt silly afterwards  thinking about the money we would of wasted on a car.


Still not convinced...here are my reasons for hiring a private tour guide.

• Their Brains..what they know

Private Tour Guide

 You see a building and want to know more about it. A guide book will give the facts in black and white. A good guide will tell you anecdotes about the building and its history in color.  You see the building in a new light, your guide has given it a soul. They will tell you facts that you will find interesting that you would not of even known to ask. I find that every place has its tantalizing secrets that the local tourism board doesn't like to advertise but your guide will tell you.

• Saves you time

 You will not waste your time reading plaques or trying to decider maps . Your guide will know where he/she is going and will guide you around in a efficient manor. While doing this they make sure that you don't miss out on anything of importance. You should never feel rushed because the guide knows how to get you the information you need in a timely manner.

• Helps with other aspects of your journey

Private Tour Guide

A good guide will question you on your trip. They will want to know what you have seen and what you plan on seeing. Partly yes , to see if they can maybe pick up more business guiding you again. You know that as much enthusiasm as they have for guiding it is not a hobby. For many guides this is the way they support their family. Even if you don't hire them again they are usually more than willing to give you free advice on your itinerary. Most guides will tell you about the best ways to exchange money. Where its not safe to venture on your own. They will give suggestions for dining, shopping and entertainment. Remember that sometimes the guides do make commission on these tips. I found though that they usually don't steer you wrong because their reputation is also on the line. They also realize that word of month is how the get a huge share of clients.


You spent a lot of money and time 

to get to your destination. While you do not need a  private guide 24/7, but just  for a couple of hours a day. You will find that hiring a private guide will greatly increase the value of your trip. Finding a good guide can be tricky. I think the best way is word of mouth. Ask around, do your research, get referrals. After all that has been said... some of the best guides I had... I just picked up along the way.

Palmarin Nature Reserve - Senegal

Palmarin Reserve - Senegal

Palmarin Nature Reserve - Senegal

Another one of the best places to visit in Senegal’s southern region is the . Palmarin Nature Reserve is located at the southern tip of the Petie Cote above the Sine-Saloum Delta. It is close to the border with The Gambia. Visitors to Palmarin can enjoy the area’s beaches, go on river cruises through the delta,

The majority of the area’s residents live in one of five villages, from north to south Ngallo, Ngueth, Gounamane, Diakhanor and Djiffer. The dominant industries in the area are traditional fishing and tourism. Other smaller industries include salt, oyster and clam harvesting. The dominant ethnic group in the area is Sereer, speaking a distinct Soloum area dialect. French and Wolof are secondary languages also commonly spoken.

Palmarin Reserve - Senegal

Palmarin Nature Reserve’s 10,430 hectares of pristine coastal environment includes a combination of Atlantic seaboard, shallow inter-coastal mangrove channels, and expansive low-level salt flats. Wildlife in the reserve is diverse and plentiful from the elusive hyena, mongoose and monkeys to the broad spectrum of permanent & migratory birds that pass through the region.

Palmarin Reserve - Senegal

Bird Watching - The region of Senegambia is a bird watcher’s dream, hosting over 600 species of migratory and resident avifauna. Due to the unique convergence of coastal, estuary and forest habitat, Palmarin Nature Reserve provides an ideal opportunity to view many of these species in a single locale.

One way of getting around Palmarin is via a horse driven cart or Charret. Charrets make accessing Le Reserve de Palmarin, the local villages and even the beaches an easy task. At the same time it lets visitors experience travel on a local level and a pace that lets you take in all your surroundings. Tours are organized on request and accompanied by an experienced guide knowledgeable on the local environment and culture.

Accommodations

• Djidjack, Palmarin Gounoumane, ☎ (221) 33 949 96 19 (campalmar@orange.sn),
• Lodge de Palmarin, Palmarin Diakhanor, ☎ (221) 33 957 12 56 (tpa@sentoo.sn)
• La Pointe de Sangomar, ☎ (221) 77 536 44 25.  
• La Tulip Noire, Palmarin Diakhanor, ☎ (221) 77 636 70 01. 
• Lodge des Collines de Niassam, ☎ (221) 77 639 06 39 (resa@niassam.com),



Palmarin Reserve - Senegal




• Yokam, Palmarin Gounoumane, ☎ (221) 77 567 01 13. 

Visit page for other Senegal Destinations

Senegals New culture and tourism minister Youssou Ndour. What can he do to promote tourism?

Driving in Senegal -Renting a car

Here are a few of the company's that offer rentals in the airport. Alamo, National, Avis, Europcar,  and Hertz
 

DRIVING IN SENEGAL

Driving in Senegal can be difficult since many drivers do not follow the regulations.  Senegal uses right-hand drive.  Vehicles should give priority to traffic coming from the right, except at traffic circles, where vehicles already in the circle have the right of way.

Senegalese law prohibits the use of cell phones while driving, unless the driver is using “hands-free” equipment.  Protective helmets are mandatory for all bicycle, moped, scooter and motorcycle drivers/riders and passengers.
When police officers stop a vehicle for a traffic violation, the police officer will generally confiscate the driver’s license or i.d. card until the fine is paid.

Required Documents

All drivers in Senegal are required to have the following documents in the vehicle: 

• Carte Grise: This is the vehicle registration and is a trifold paper about 3 ½ x 8 inches.  In the upper left corner it states No. Immat Vehicle and lists the license plate number.
• Declaration en Douane: This is the customs declaration if you imported your vehicle into Senegal. 
• Attestation D’Assurance: This is a yellow insurance card that is placed in a small plastic shield on the inside front windshield of the car.  This card must be renewed annually. 
• Vignette: Tax disc for the current year.
• Valid driver’s license: Drivers must either obtain a Senegalese drivers license or present their U.S. driver’s license.
• Copy of your passport: Make a copy of the front of the passport, the biographic page, and the page with your Senegalese visa.

Police officers have the authority to detain individuals who do not have these required documents.

Accidents

Drivers are required to purchase third-party insurance, which will cover damages resulting in injuries where the driver is not at fault.  If a driver is found to have caused an accident, the penalty ranges from five months to two years in prison, with a possible fine.  If a driver causes an accident that results in a death, the penalty can be as high as five years in prison. 

You are encouraged to take the following actions if involved in an automobile accident:

• Do not move the vehicle unless it is causing a traffic hazard.
• If a crowd forms and you feel you are in jeopardy, move immediately to a safe area.
• In the case of a minor accident with minimal damage and no injuries, you may wish to attempt to settle the incident.  Involving the authorities will likely take a minimum of four hours.  If you need to contact the authorities, the Central Police Station in downtown Dakar has a mobile accident investigation unit.  If you call the Police Station at 823-2529 or 823-2333, they will give you the cell phone number of the officer on duty with the mobile unit.  Most police officers in Senegal do not speak English.
• Remain calm. Avoid aggravating or inciting the other driver, the victim, or observers.
• Do not challenge a police officer or withhold documents or information.

Senegal Railways - The Dakar–Niger Railway

Senegal has 906 km of railway at 1,000 mm (3 ft 3 ³⁄₈ in) gauge. This is part of the Dakar-Niger Railway which crosses the border to Mali. 

Senegal Rail Station Clock Tower

The Dakar–Niger Railway connects Dakar, (Senegal) to Koulikoro, (Mali). It serves many cities in Senegal (including Thiès) and Mali (including Kayes, Kita, Kati, Bamako). The line covers a course of 1,287 km of which 641 km lies in Mali.

 Construction work on the Dakar–Niger Railway began at the end of the 19th century under the French general Gallieni, commander of French Sudan.

The railroad connected the Niger River with the port of Dakar, allowing the transport of raw materials across the globe. The line was completed at the beginning of the 20th century, the Kayes-Koulikoro section being inaugurated in 1904, but the final section of line did not open until 1924.

The difficulties of management and the lack of investment have led to a degradation of the infrastructure and rolling stock and numerous delays. In Senegal the maximum speed of the trains has in many places been limited to 20 km/h due to the bad state of the tracks. In October 2003, Senegal and Mali entrusted the management of the network to the Transrail consortium.

In spite of Transrail's obligation to maintain a passenger service, Transrail intends to concentrate on the transport of goods. Many stations have been closed and the numbers of connections reduced, creating difficulties for isolated communities. Currently there are no passenger trains running between Kayes and Thies.Transrail was bought in 2007 by the Belgian company Vecturis

For more information please visit : Beginner's guide to Train travel in Senegal & Mali 


If you have rode this rail please share your experience with us.

Senegal Taxis, Sept-Place Taxis, Car Rapides and Buses

By Taxi

Black-yellow or blue-yellow in color are cheap, numerous and available everywhere in Dakar it is customary to negotiate the fair since most meters installed in the taxis are broken or missing. Make sure that you have correct change.. drivers for some reason hate making change :-) If you're not from Senegal, you will have an outrageous price proposed, be prepared try to find out the going local rate before hand.

By Bus

The Dakar bus system, known as Dakar Demm Dikk (Dakar coming and going), is fairly dependable. Fares are 150 CFA, and there are no transfer. Unfortunately, for newcomers, there's not much in the way of a map of the bus system, so you'll have to figure it out on your own. The number 10 bus runs along the Corniche de l'Ouest and turns into the suburbs at Rue Aime Cesaire. The number 1 bus runs along the VDN.

By Sept-Place- Taxi ( Bush Taxi)

Senegal Sept-Place Taxi

Most station-wagon bush taxis were modified 1980s-model Peugeot 504 Basically, they modify the space where the trunk is supposed to be, so that it can carry two or three extra people. Cars like this are 

called “Sept Place” (seven seats) in Senegal . This is your best bet to travel outside of Dakar unless you want to hire a private car, which can be expensive. 

Sept-place taxis can take you to other parts of Senegal or to bordering countries. The downside is that you must be prepared to wait until all sits are filled before the driver will depart.

By Car Rapides

The famous Car Rapide, Senegal's most commonly used form of transportation, mainly used in Dakar and St. Louis. The cars are recognized by their blue / yellow colours and the text 'Transport Commun' and 'Alhamdoulilahi' (thanks to God). Don't let the name fool you. They are not rapid but are cheap.

Getting to Senegal

Freighters World Cruises

If your in the United States you must fly or take a boat. From Europe it is possible to drive down, but not recommended. Well as for a boat there is no scheduled service. You can try what my father did years 
ago.. he took a freighter for the New York to  Nigeria.  The problem is  that the ship probably will make many stops along the way. It can take weeks and since its not a recreational cruise line you better pack a lot of books to read. The crew is not there to entertain you. If you insist click this link for Freighters World Cruises Inc. There are people who have the time and insist this the only way to travel.

South African Airways

So... from the United States that leaves flying.  You can fly via  Europe or Morocco and connect to Dakar. This  will make for a long trip anywhere from 16 to 25 hours with the layover.  45 flights per week fly out of New York, NY connecting to Dakar,. In a hurry then get a direct  flight on Delta Airlines out of JFK or on South African Airlways, from Washington, DC it is a non stop flight. Travel time is 7  1/2 hours outbound and 9 1/2 return. Not sure why the return takes and addition 2 hours. Maybe some pilot will let me know :-)

Welcome to Senegal Soul

Blogging about things to do and  See in Senegal.